On Wednesday, April 22, we flew north from Buenos Aires to Puerto Iguazu, the town adjacent to Iguazu National Park and Waterfalls. The slightly less than 2 hour flight was uneventful, and we were met and taken to our apartment in the city. Our plans for our next stop were to fly southwest to Bariloche, changing planes in Buenos Aires, on Saturday April 25. We were to spend 3 nights in Bariloche, driving around the lakes and mountains in the National Park, then travel by land to Puerto Varas, Chile, staying for 2 nights on the lake overlooking two volcanoes. We then were to fly to Santiago Chile on Thursday,
April 30.
Thursday morning we turned on CNN while having breakfast and learned that the Calbuco Volcano in Chile had erupted first Wednesday evening and again Thursday morning. There was spectacular footage of the eruptions taken in Puerto Varas, but also reportage of fears that a third eruption was possible. Since Calbuco hadn't erupted in over 50 years, we wish it'd had the courtesy to wait until after our visit. For some great photos of the eruption, mostly taken from Puerto Vargas, where we intended to stay, go to www.boredpanda.com/volcano-eruption-calbuco-chile
On Friday we received an e-mail from our accommodation in Bariloche expressing uncertainties about what was occurring and availability of flights (cancellations were taking place because of the presence of heavy ash). We then learned that our Saturday afternoon flight was cancelled with a possible flight taking place Saturday night. We also were advised that the Argentina-Chile border would probably be closed. Seeing health warnings concerning the ash, we decided to change our itinerary. We flew to Mendoza, Argentina (touted to be an international wine capitol), on Saturday April 25th, and will leave from Mendoza for Santiago on Thursday, April 30.
Tuesday, April 28, 2015
Iguazu Falls Day 1 Butterflies, Coatis and Water!
Thursday, April 23
We took a taxi to the Iguazu National Park in the morning and arranged for pick up later in the afternoon. We were really impressed by the layout and infrastructure, with excellent access and signage. The many park employees, identified by their uniforms, were also very helpful. The park is located in a subtopical rainforest. The film Indiana Jones and the Crystal Skull and The Mission were filmed here.
We started at the visitor center museum, then took a small train (included in the entrance ticket price) to the central park center.
Cheesy Tourist Photo of Cheesy Visitors to Iguazu National Park
Jaguars are Nocturnal. The Only One We Saw
Taking the Train
From the central area, we took a second train up to the entrance to the largest falls in the park, the Garganta del Diablo or Devil's throat at the Upper Iguazu River. The higher falls at Iguazu are a third taller than Niagara, with the total number of waterfalls of all sizes ranging from 150 to 300 depending on the amount of water flowing. Eleanor Roosevelt reportedly said, upon viewing Iguazu, "poor Niagara". The Iguazu River forms the border between Argentina, Brazil, and Paraguay, with 80 percent of the falls in Argentina and 20 percent in Brazil.
I had an interesting conversation on the train with a woman about our age. She was traveling with her daughter and 3 grandkids. With her limited English and my very limited Spanish, I learned that she has 9 grandchildren, lives in Buenos Aires, has a sister in Miami who summers in Carolina (she wasn't sure North or South), loved to travel to Bariloche with her husband (now deceased) and recommended we should visit Mendoza. She gave me a prayer card when we parted.
To reach the Garganta one walks about two-thirds of a mile over elevated walkways between the islands of the river. At the falls water pours in from three directions.
The Walkway to Garganta
At the Devil's Throat
We Got a Bit Wet
The two forms of animal life extremely prolific in the park are coatis and butterflies. Coatis are from the racoon family. They travel in packs and are common in the public areas of the park, especially where food is being served. Signs warn visitors to not feed them and notify us that they bite, but it's difficult to avoid them.
The butterlies (mariposas) were incredibly profuse. We first saw them while coming into the town from the airport, flying around the road. There are about 500 species of butterflies in the park. Because of the jungle dampness, they need salt, and congregate where salt may be present - human excretions and perspiration in particular. Some of our butterfly photos:
Butterflies Congregating at a Sewage Pipe
Butterfly Pupae Feed on Milkweed Pods
On Top of Nick's Cap
On the Gravel
On the Walkway
On Nick's Hand
On Nick's Backpack
From the Garganta area, we took a half-hour raft trip through the quiet and peaceful shallows of the river and walked back to the central area to catch the train to the entrance and our ride back to town.
We took a taxi to the Iguazu National Park in the morning and arranged for pick up later in the afternoon. We were really impressed by the layout and infrastructure, with excellent access and signage. The many park employees, identified by their uniforms, were also very helpful. The park is located in a subtopical rainforest. The film Indiana Jones and the Crystal Skull and The Mission were filmed here.
We started at the visitor center museum, then took a small train (included in the entrance ticket price) to the central park center.
Taking the Train
I had an interesting conversation on the train with a woman about our age. She was traveling with her daughter and 3 grandkids. With her limited English and my very limited Spanish, I learned that she has 9 grandchildren, lives in Buenos Aires, has a sister in Miami who summers in Carolina (she wasn't sure North or South), loved to travel to Bariloche with her husband (now deceased) and recommended we should visit Mendoza. She gave me a prayer card when we parted.
To reach the Garganta one walks about two-thirds of a mile over elevated walkways between the islands of the river. At the falls water pours in from three directions.
We Got a Bit Wet
The two forms of animal life extremely prolific in the park are coatis and butterflies. Coatis are from the racoon family. They travel in packs and are common in the public areas of the park, especially where food is being served. Signs warn visitors to not feed them and notify us that they bite, but it's difficult to avoid them.
The butterlies (mariposas) were incredibly profuse. We first saw them while coming into the town from the airport, flying around the road. There are about 500 species of butterflies in the park. Because of the jungle dampness, they need salt, and congregate where salt may be present - human excretions and perspiration in particular. Some of our butterfly photos:
On Nick's Backpack
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From the Garganta area, we took a half-hour raft trip through the quiet and peaceful shallows of the river and walked back to the central area to catch the train to the entrance and our ride back to town.
Iguazu Falls, Day Two
Our second day in the park combined a nature walk, a 4-wheel vehicle trip along a jungle trail, a four mile boat trip through the Lower Iguazu River (with a couple of kilometers of rapids), and very wet closeups of the Garganta and the San Martin waterfall, the second largest one.
From the entrance area, we did a 20 minute walk along a jungle path (The Green Trail) up to the central area, where we boarded a vehicle for a four mile trip along the Yacaratia Trail.
Nick on the Green Trail
Guide Explaining (in Spanish and English) the Flora and Fauna on the Yacaratia Trail
We then climbed down (lots of) steps to the River to board the boat for the River trip. We raced through the rapids, then stopped for some photo ops before proceeding twice under the San Martin and Garganta Falls. They furnish water-proof bags for cameras (and our shoes) but otherwise we were really soaked!
Boats at the Boarding Area, Lower River
Exciting Trip Through the Rapids
Into the Deluge
We climbed LOTS of steps after leaving the boat, but had some great views of the Falls. We then took the path toward the center of the park, past additional waterfalls. We stopped at the Sheraton (the only hotel actually in the Park), got some advice about proceeding to Bailoche the next day, and contacted Delta in Atlanta (courtesy of the Sheraton desk clerks) to change our reservation from Bariloche to Mendoza, with a flight from Mendoza to Santiago on the 30th. Back in town at our hotel, we got online and made reservations in Mendoza. The hotel manager Marcelo, a very sweet guy with very little English, brought an English-speaking buddy in to call the Mendoza hotel and arrange for airport pickup. Since our mobile phone is not functioning here, we have been reliant on the kindness of strangers and they have really come through for us!
From the entrance area, we did a 20 minute walk along a jungle path (The Green Trail) up to the central area, where we boarded a vehicle for a four mile trip along the Yacaratia Trail.
We then climbed down (lots of) steps to the River to board the boat for the River trip. We raced through the rapids, then stopped for some photo ops before proceeding twice under the San Martin and Garganta Falls. They furnish water-proof bags for cameras (and our shoes) but otherwise we were really soaked!
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| Toward the Garganta Falls |
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| The San Martin Falls |
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| Before the Deluge |
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| After the Deluge, Very Wet But Happy |
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| A Few of the Many Steps Up from the Boat Landing |
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| A View of the San Martin Falls from on Land |
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| The Dos Hermanos Double Falls Along the Path |
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| No Pot of Gold But a Nice End to a Great Day! |
Tuesday, April 21, 2015
Equipment Malfunction
We've been in Buenos Aires since last Thursday and enjoying ourselves enormously, but just now able to blog. All my past access to blog has been through our ASUS tablet. We discovered in Cape Town that it wasn't charging properly, and then discovered that the cord connecting the tablet to an outlet was frayed. No luck finding a replacement in South Africa, but we bought a Samsung tablet on which I am now blogging. We assumed we'd find a replacement cord in Buenos Aires - no luck, very restrictive on imports (Apple isn't even here). The Samsung is much less powerful than the ASUS, so I'm more limited in photo storeage, etc. but will pick up the blog in Buenos Aires and hope to backtrack with news of South Africa later.
Arriving in Buenos Aires
We left Cape Town in Tuesday, April 14, changed planes in Johannesburg and flew overnight into Paris. With an all-day layover in Paris, Nick stayed at the Air France lounge while I took the train into the city and wandered around a bit. We then flew overnight to Buenos Aires and were met at the airport and transported to our apartment on Thursday, April 16. The apartment owner, a local attorney, welcomed us and exchanged some dollars for pesos at the unofficial "blue" rate (about 30% better than the official rate).
The apartment is very comfortable, bright and airy, second bedroom (our "luggage room"), very well equipped kitchen, washer and dryer, etc. We're staying in Recoleta, a rather upscale neighborhood famous for its cemetery and the many dog walkers strolling the sidewalks.
Nick having breakfast at our apartment in Recoleta
The apartment is very comfortable, bright and airy, second bedroom (our "luggage room"), very well equipped kitchen, washer and dryer, etc. We're staying in Recoleta, a rather upscale neighborhood famous for its cemetery and the many dog walkers strolling the sidewalks.
Buenos Aires from a Bus Top
Friday, April 17
We spent our first full day in Buenos Aires sight-seeing via the hop on/off Buenos Aires Bus, several hours of narrated travel to the principal neighborhoods and tourist sights of the city. We travelled from the posh areas of Recoleta, Palermo and Belgrano through the city center to rough and tumble La Boca and back. Buenos Aires is a very beautiful city with interesting architecture and lots of green spaces, and countless statues and monuments honoring its history.
Home of the Boca Juniors Futbol (Soccer) Team
The Home of Their Biggest Rivals, the River Plate Team
Nick Listening to the Narration
Restaurant Along the Rio de la Plata (River of Silver)
One of a Multitude of Squares and Statues
Another Square and Monument
And Another
We spent our first full day in Buenos Aires sight-seeing via the hop on/off Buenos Aires Bus, several hours of narrated travel to the principal neighborhoods and tourist sights of the city. We travelled from the posh areas of Recoleta, Palermo and Belgrano through the city center to rough and tumble La Boca and back. Buenos Aires is a very beautiful city with interesting architecture and lots of green spaces, and countless statues and monuments honoring its history.
Riding the Bus Along Av 9 de Julio, Called by the Locals "The Widest Street in the World"
The Teatro Colon, Which Opened in 1908 with a Performance of Aida
Street Fair in La Boca
A Day in Recoleta, Visiting the Dead and Enjoying Art
Saturday, April 18
Recoleta is perhaps best known for its astonishing cemetery, one of the most visited sights in Buenos Aires. The site holds more than 4,800 vaults in ostentations mausoleums of varying architectural styles. Of the Presidents, poets, and generally powerful elite interred here, Eva Peron is the most controversial (and most visited). Her final resting place is in the Duarte Family mausoleum (Eva was illegitimate, the family was of her father). The families of other elites buried here objected to her inclusion because of the status of her birth, but also because in life she was totally opposed to the wealthy and powerful citizens with whom she now abides. To prevent vandalism of the sort that led to Juan Peron's hands being cut off after burial, Evita is buried under several tons on cement. Juan is in his family's crypt in a different and less exclusive cemetery.
The Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Pilar, Consecrated in 1732, as over- the -top ornate as the nearby cemetery.
Nick and the Angels
Caskets Through an Open Door
Don't Cry for Me Argentina - Evita's Family Tomb
One of Many Plaques Honoring Evita
Keeping Things Tidy
The Girl is Buried Here. Don't Know About the Dog.
The Cemetery and Surrounding Area
We also spent some time Saturday at the Museo de Bellas Artes in Recoleta. Considered the country's most important art museum, it has a very impressive collection of European masters, impressionists, and Argentine artists. We had a guided tour (in English) from a young fine arts student who integrated Argentine history with the works we viewed.
Our Guide, Guillermo, with the Oldest Piece in the Museum (14th c.)
Juan Manual de Rosas, President in the mid 1800's, Making a Political Appeal by Dressing in a Serape (He didn't normally dress that way).
De Rosa's Daughter, Who Appears with Him on the 20 Peso Note
We finished off the day with a great dinner at Cabanas Las Lilas, a famous steak house at the Puerto Madero, a renovated waterfront area of shops and restaurants. Had a great steak, souffle potatoes, creamed spinach, etc. etc. No photos for blog, unfortunately. Less space on this tablet so only room for shots from my camera. Nick did get some good ones.
Recoleta is perhaps best known for its astonishing cemetery, one of the most visited sights in Buenos Aires. The site holds more than 4,800 vaults in ostentations mausoleums of varying architectural styles. Of the Presidents, poets, and generally powerful elite interred here, Eva Peron is the most controversial (and most visited). Her final resting place is in the Duarte Family mausoleum (Eva was illegitimate, the family was of her father). The families of other elites buried here objected to her inclusion because of the status of her birth, but also because in life she was totally opposed to the wealthy and powerful citizens with whom she now abides. To prevent vandalism of the sort that led to Juan Peron's hands being cut off after burial, Evita is buried under several tons on cement. Juan is in his family's crypt in a different and less exclusive cemetery.
The Iglesia de Nuestra Senora de Pilar, Consecrated in 1732, as over- the -top ornate as the nearby cemetery.
We also spent some time Saturday at the Museo de Bellas Artes in Recoleta. Considered the country's most important art museum, it has a very impressive collection of European masters, impressionists, and Argentine artists. We had a guided tour (in English) from a young fine arts student who integrated Argentine history with the works we viewed.
We finished off the day with a great dinner at Cabanas Las Lilas, a famous steak house at the Puerto Madero, a renovated waterfront area of shops and restaurants. Had a great steak, souffle potatoes, creamed spinach, etc. etc. No photos for blog, unfortunately. Less space on this tablet so only room for shots from my camera. Nick did get some good ones.
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