Our first full day on San Cristobal dawened sunny and
hot - the temperature hit somewhere in the low 90's with a respectable humidity. After a delicious breakfast prepared by Luis, we ordered a taxi ($2 almost anyplace, a bit more if you're going farther afield) and started our explorations at the National Park Visitor Center and Museum. The museum had lots of information on the geology and history of the Galapagos Islands. We spent over an hour there learning about the Galapagos archipelago. The islands lie some 600 miles west of the coast of the mainland of Ecuador. The total population is less than 25,000 inhabitants (plus tourists). Ninety-seven percent of the surface area is part of the Galapagos National Park. Perhaps the most famous visitor was Charles Darwin, who arrived aboard the H.M.S. Beagle in 1835. His observations of the complexity, diversity and uniqueness of the animal and vegetable life of the islands led to his
Theory of the Evolution of the Species. San Cristobal is the easternmost of the five inhabited islands (San Cristobal, Santa Cruz, Baltra, Floreana and Isabela). The only real town is Puerto Baquerizo Moreno, the location of both the airport and the port. The population is about 1,000. The island also contains the only freshwater lake in the Galapagos, There are farms and cattle ranches in the highlands above the port.
From the Visitor Center we followed a mile and a half path and about 90 steps up to Tijeretas Hill, named for the Tijeretas, or Frigate birds, who live and nest in the area. The males are noted for their bright red pouches which they puff out in the mating ritual. We observed a lot of the birds, but none appeared to be mating.
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A Fortuitously Placed Bench Along the Hike |
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Resting on the Steps |
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Observation Platform on the Way Up the Hill |
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Frigate Bird Flying Over Frigate Hill |
From the hill we took a path down to Carola Beach for our first glimpse of marine iguanas. These are the only seafaring lizards in the world. They've evolved from land iguanas over a span of 2 or 3 million years to be able to find food underwater. They are black iin color and larger than the brownish-yellow land iguanas, which are considered an endangered species on the islands. We discovered that the marine iguanas are pretty plentiful here. The beach is also home to a colony of sea lions, known as
lobos here. They're also fairly ubiquitous, with lots of them making their home right in the town.
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Wise Marine Iguanas Finding Shade |
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And a Smart Lobo Finding Shade Under a Surf Board Rack |
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This Young Sea Lion Was Climbing Up to Join the One Under the Surf Board Rack |
Leaving the beach, we rather unwisely took a steep and rocky path up to the road. With the heat and exertion, we immediately began hoping for a taxi. We finally found one to take us back to the casa, where we rested, cooled off, and watched another nice sunset before venturing back out for dinner.
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