A Bit of Tension in Jerusalem

Today was our fifth day in Jerusalem.  We arrived from Beijing via Paris last Monday night,  almost 15 hours of flights and a 5 hour layover.  Things are a bit more tense than usual here.  Much of the tension centers around access to the Temple Mount (known to the Muslims as the Noble Sancturary), the site of the Al Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock.  The Mount is sacred to Jews as the site of Solomon's Temple and where Abraham's aborted sacrifice of Isaac occurred, and is the third most sacred site for Muslims, following Mecca and Medinah, as the site where Mohammed ascended to heaven.

The Al Aqsa Mosque and the Dome of the Rock, from the Mount of Olives (click for larger view)

Last week a Palestinian activist shot and injured a Jewish rabbi who has been advocating non-Muslim prayer at the Mount (currently prohibited by Israeli law).  Israeli security forces shot and killed the alleged shooter, and rioting on the Mount and in East Jerusalem followed.  (We watched some of this on the news in China.) The mount was closed, but re-opened a week ago Friday to Muslims for prayer, but only for women and for men over 50 years of age. Jordan had administrative control over the Mount, and Jordan has re-called its ambassador for consultation over access.

This past Wednesday another incident occurred.  Nick wanted to take a long walk up King George Street in search of a camera shop for a SD card for his back-up camera.  I decided to sit on a bench in front of the Great Synagogue and wait for him.  Just as I sat down, a large number of emergency vehicles rushed by, and then several helicopters flew over.  A Palestinian driver had rammed his car into a group of security patrolmen, killing two and seriously injuring several more.  He then drove on and into a group of pedestrians waiting for the light rail, finally stopping and emerging to swing a metal bar at people and cars.  He was shot and killed after injuring 20 persons.  More unrest followed and authorities closed the Temple Mount again.  We heard a lot of firecrackers Wednesday night, but things were calm in the immediate area where we're staying.  On Friday, the Muslim Holy Day, authorities again opened access to the Mount, this time prohibiting males under 30.  Access for non-Muslims is restricted to certain days and hours.  We were at the Western Wall, immediately under the Mount, on Tuesday and thought of going up but decided the lines were too long.  We will probably try to do so tomorrow morning.

Women's Section, Western Wall.  Women Have Been Arrested Attempting to Pray at Men Only Section.

Men's Section, Western Wall.  Far Fewer Men Praying than Women

Ramp Up to Temple Mount, Only Access for Non-Muslims

 Yesterday (Friday) we walked to East Jerusalem (the Palestinian area) to catch a bus to the Mount of Olives.  Security was very tight, as hundreds of Muslims were making their way through the Damascus Gate and into the Old City for prayer.  We evidently don't appear threatening, and were waved through the check points without incident.  So far, we're not aware of further unrest, but some are now predicting a "Third Intifada" and some Palestinian activists are calling for a "runover intifada" on social media.

Today we were back in East Jerusalem to take a bus to Bethlehem, and things seemed much more subdued.  Anyway, we're safe if not sound, and now listening to the "call to prayer" through our open windows.